How To Change Brake Lines On Fjr Yamaha 2009

I've resurrected this install article upwards from the ashes. In doing and then, I've had to replace some of the lost earlier photos, with text. I've tried to give plenty detail information, without going into a ramble, since I didn't shoot photos of every nut and bolt. In one case you're working the system, things will go obvious. I hope you notice the article useful.

Disclaimer: If you're not sure y'all take the mechanical bent, then drop the wrench and stand back. For all intent and purposes, brake lines are brake lines, whether ABS or non. Yous'll need to exercise some mutual sense here . Working on any hydraulic brake system is serious business. I will not be responsible for any injuries/accidents or fatal outcomes. Enough said!

Hopefully yous'll take all the necessary parts and tools needed, before breaking into this projection. Having a Mityvac would be ideal, for draining. However, if you lot're not using one, you'll demand some kind of container to grab the fluid. You'll want to clean up any spilt fluid immediately because information technology'southward hard on the plastic and painted finishes.

Tools Needed:

Allen wrenches
7mm open cease wrench
8mm box end wrench
10mm Flare nut wrench
14mm open end wrench
Ratchet with six-pt 14mm socket
Knuckle joint and extension
6-8" Crescent
Small demote vice
Your choice of bleeding tool, if not using Speed Bleeders

Optional:

Electrical tape
Teflon tape
12"-fourteen" clear hose
Used plastic water bottle
Apartment tool bar (clutch)
Paint stirring sticks (clutch)

Note: I'yard simply giving parameters here, from my own experience. This is not the "X Commandants" written in stone and this is not meant to supercede the Service Manual. Take your time!

First, you'll need to remove panels "D" and "C" to proceeds wrenching access. If you're not "plastic savvy", refer to the Dash Panel page for directions on the "how to". I likewise removed the battery for more than working room, but that'southward your selection. If you lot've got large hands, you'll appreciate any actress room. Yous'll also need to remove the seats, tank cowling and the "F" side console.

OK, now down to the front lines. I'm working upwardly from the bottom to the summit connections here. Remove the wire brake hose holders but above the calipers. Side by side, drain the lines with your method of option, either with the Mityvac or catch containers and store towels. Proceed to break open the banjo bolts at the calipers. After that, move upward to where the 3-manner is fastened to the forks and remove the 2 mounting bracket bolts. Carve up the cycle sensor line and push bated.

Proposition: Before undoing the lines where they connect to the difficult lines, I would suggest you some how mark or characterization, at least one of the hard lines. This will prevent possible confusion, when it comes time to reinstall the new lines. Yous don't desire to get the hard lines crossed.

In that location'south a securing clamp at the indicate where the lines connect with the hard lines, only earlier going into the frame. Before removing the clamp, you may wish to stuff some rags/towels in effectually the bottom of the fittings. What yous want to practise hither side by side, is to intermission loose the fittings, before removing the clench. Button against or hold the clamp with your right hand, while wrenching with your left. Notwithstanding, if it looks like they are not going to break loose, then y'all'll need to remove the clamp and divide the lines. You'll demand to remove the bolt, that's on the bottom of the clamp in order to carve up and remove.

Caution: In regards to removing/installing the restriction lines to the hard lines. If the difficult line fittings go severely damaged, you're screwed. Yous'll have to pull the engine to replace the steel lines.

Now, after having separated the lines from the difficult lines, I removed the wire hose/cable guide on the triple and then the banjo at the reservoir, the lines should at present be ready to come out. Wipe upwardly any fluid and go along on.

I decided to remove all the lines kickoff, earlier installing any new lines, so that'southward the direction I'm going hither. Next up, bleed the rear line and remove the banjo bolt, if you haven't done so. You besides should accept removed the side panels to access the hydraulic unit. Undo all the line securing clamps.

Tip#1: Y'all'll find there'due south a small agree downward clamp securing the hard lines to the frame. There'due south also one directly beyond on the left side of the bike frame. I plant that by removing the two clamps, it made wrenching the flair-nut fittings a little easier. Notwithstanding, this is optional. Use caution , when wrenching hard lines.

You'll need to stuff rags/towels accordingly here, in order to contain any dripping fluid. Tag or mark the difficult lines. Keep to remove the banjo bolts and hard line fittings. Once you've removed the banjo bolts, be conscientious non to become whatsoever dirt within the exposed pump openings.

In removing the banjo bolt and line at the rear master, it tin can be removed with master on or off the bike. I prefer to work on the demote and institute it easier to work with it off, then fight with it wrenching on the wheel. That's your call.

All the old lines should now be off and y'all should be set to reverse your order. There's quite a departure betwixt the erstwhile and new lines.

When you expect at the SS lines, yous'll discover that they have a natural curve to them. If you do a dry run in the fit-up, you may notice the banjos may need a slight aligning for a better fit-up, from banjo to banjo. I'm referring to line twist and clearance/rubbing bug here. Here's where that piddling blueish plastic tool and the vice comes into play. Place the banjo in the tool, and and so identify the tool into the vice. I taped the jaws on a Crescent, forth with a 7mm then carefully turned the banjo, to make any slight adjustment.

Tip#two: You lot must use the plastic tool in a vice to brand it work, not vise grips. It must exist mashed until the blue plastic turns white, at the vise jaws. If this is not accomplished and you try to brand adjustments, y'all've just wasted a plastic tool. Use farthermost care when making whatsoever banjo adjustments!

When installing the 2 lines for the hard line fittings, don't tighten the difficult line terminate until the banjo terminate is in identify, with bolt and washers finger tight. Assuming no banjo adjustment is needed and the banjo ends line upward where you want them, you tin start to tighten up the ends. You'll observe when tightening the banjo bolts, that the banjos will want to creep along with the wrench. Keep in mind that the washers are a one-fourth dimension use bargain! Get slowly and surely, before last tightening.

29-July-2005 Update:

The photograph above where I am using ii wrenches to adapt banjos is from when I did the prototype work. At that fourth dimension the 7mm was used to conform the banjos. The kits now come with a white plastic rod, which is inserted into the banjo to make necessary adjustments. Y'all can now forego without the wrenches.

Heads-up: The Billet bolts are lite and strong. Yet, improper wrenching volition nick up their fine cease.

Tip#3: I establish that past giving the heads of the banjo bolts a few wraps of Teflon record, helped to keep from nicking upwardly the fine finish, from a wrench or socket. However, don't get record under the washer or commodities head. Keeping your wrench or socket square to the commodities, works wonders here. Use 6-pt tools, instead of 12-pt!

Caution: Practise non tighten the Billet banjo bolts to the stock steel bolt specs. They merely require xvi-17 lbs torque.

You don't desire to torque tighten, then go back and undo banjo fittings, if at all possible. If you practice need to disengage a banjo, you'll demand to replace the washers, for they are a one-fourth dimension bargain. Reusing washers will just make for weeping leaks. Besides, it is not recommended to use Teflon tape, anywhere on the system. When the system is installed correctly, there will exist no leaks.

Your pump lines should look something like this...

With the new stiffer SS lines all the securing clamps will not be required. However, for the one rear line clamp, I used a i" long piece of rubber fuel line, separate one side, so slipped it over the line. So gave it a few wraps of electrical tape, placed the clamp over the hose and mounted. I so secured the sensor line forward the clench, with a nylon necktie.

At this point you should be set to beginning working on the front lines. Sort out your lines in a dry out run fit-up. Check your banjo alignment and arrange appropriately. If you're satisfied with the fit-up, snug up your fittings. Always check for alignment and clearances before the final tightening. Continue an eye on the clearance with the line running from the difficult-line, downward to the 2-mode manifold. Turn the bars to a full left and check clearance and adjust appropriately. You may demand to slot/elongate the mounting subclass holes, in social club to shift the manifold to the bikes right, to proceeds needed clearance. The line should not rub on the cowling sub-frame.

I didn't reinstall the wire forepart brake hose holders, since they're not required with the stiffer lines. I other thing left, is to make your own securing subclass, to secure the lines to the frame where they join the hard lines. I just fabricated upwards a sandwich clench from some 1/8" flat stock.

As for securing the sensor line at the previous left hose holder, I used a nylon screw and nylon clamp. On top, I nylon tied information technology to the wire loom.

If you're using Speed Bleeders, now's a good time to install before recharging the system. Remove the old bleeders, and then screw the Speed Bleeders in until they seat. Don't ham-fist the bleeders! Fill your reservoir with DOT four fluid of your choice, and and then prepare to bleed. Bleed the front end first, so the rear.

Unscrew the Speed Bleeder i/4 to 1/2 turn.
Slowly pump the brake pedal approximately 4-five times. (You do not have to shut the bleeder spiral between pumps.) A one-way cheque valve lets the air and fluid out when the pedal is pressed and closes between pumps preventing new air from reentering the system between pumps.
After bubble-free fluid comes out of the Speed Bleeder screw, close the Speed Bleeder until it seats.
Go along to the adjacent caliper until all are bled.

The reservoirs will pump out fairly quick, and then exist careful non to run dry or you'll pump air into the organization. Then, y'all'll have to start all over. At this point, if you installed everything correctly, you should at present take brakes. Brand sure in that location's no weeping leaks. If you can't get the leak to cease, by nudging information technology up with a wrench, you may need to replace the (one-time employ) washers, with new ones. Scout and check for whatever weeping leaks after the first few days or rides. ;)

Final Notation: The transmission talks of doing a unit operations test later the arrangement has been disassembled, adjusted, or serviced. This exam requires the Yamaha tool YM-03149, which is basically a jumper wire, to test the organization function. To exam or not, is your decision, but be absolutely sure your ABS arrangement is working properly. Every bit for whatever ABS alert calorie-free flashes, you'll demand to obtain and refer to the supplementary manual.

Hopefully everything went well. Even so, double-cheque your work, earlier going out on the highway.

Clutch Line

I've written a small article for those you've opted for the clutch line install. The job was frustrating without any aid from the transmission. I'll throw out some pointers, however your technique in removing the line, may vary.

To get started y'all'll need to remove the gas tank for working access. To relieve space, go to Gas Tank Removal , if you need assist. Yous'll also need to remove the T-bar and condom covers. Afterward that, you should at present be prepare to drain the line and remove the banjo bolts.

The clutch line is underneath the restriction lines and attached to the frame with a clamp.

With your light and looking way down, you should come across the clench in question. Follow the line up into the frame, if y'all need to. Since there's no way to undo the clench, I took a pry bar and advisedly pulled/pried the clamp upwards, only enough to remove the line.

Remove the forepart hose clamp at the frame. Yous'll be working information technology up out from the rear, working your way forward. Since the clutch line lies underneath the brake lines and sandwiched against the frame, some care must be taken in removal. You don't desire to damage the brake lines or other components in the process of removing. I taped the finish of a bar and besides used wooden paint sticks, to separate/wedge and persuade the line upwardly out. Once yous see how the line is positioned on the bike, you'll see what I'm referring to. It looks and sounds worse than information technology really is. It does however come out!

Now, the old line should be out. Where the stock line clamp was previously pried upward, I carefully bent and returned it back to its original identify. At this signal, without going into too much detail, information technology'southward just a matter of threading in the new line. Check for any (line twist) banjo adjustments that may be needed before final bolt tightening. Take care in securing the line and so there's no rubbing/chaffing or pinching of the line or other components. Make full the organisation, drain and bank check for any weeping. Push it all dorsum upwards.

As always, double-check your work, before putting away wrenches and going out on the highway!

Here are the torque values for the bolts: